Beautiful Bathrooms

Beautiful Bathrooms
by Jan Gunn Interior Architecture and Design

Bathrooms are at the top of the list for home remodeling projects in 2010.

With the current trends in bathroom remodeling, there is something for everyone, no matter what the budget is.  If you haven't been in to Ann Sacks recently, they just launched "AS Basics", an new line of tiles at "economy friendly" suggested retail prices of under $12.00 per square foot.  Likewise, Robern just launched a new "builder" line that is also very reasonably priced.

From tub changes, to “borrowing space” from an adjacent closet, to fresh paint and new lighting, a dated bathroom can always be improved.

May all your bathrooms be showplaces!

photo by Doug Salin 

Suitability

A good place for you and your client to begin is by evaluating the value of their home.  A remodeling project shouldn't be so extravagant that it overwhelms the underlying property value!  The National Association of Home Builders suggests that when all other factors are equal, an additional half bathroom increases the value of a home by 10.5%, and an additional full bathroom increases the value by 20%.  New bathrooms recoup approximately 60% of the initial investment within the first year of completion.  But, it may take up to five years to recoup the full expense of a major remodel.

Once you and your client have decided to move ahead with the project, it’s time to set a budget based on the homeowner's finances, and the suitability of the remodeling project for the home.  After the budget has been agreed upon, the design process can begin!


Lighting
Layered lighting is important irregardless of the style of the project.  Did you ever hold a flashlight under your chin in a dark room as a child?  The same ghoulish effect occurs in reverse (top down) in a bathroom that is illuminated with a single overhead light!  Who needs to look like they have dark circles under their eyes?  Side sconces by the mirror(s) serve as flattering task lights.  Halogen lamps are the best type of lamps for sconces.  The color of halogen light is the closest to daylight, so the appearance of cosmetics is similar to what others see.  Accent lighting can add a “pop” of personality to the room. General ambient lighting should be controlled by dimmers, which are flexible and energy efficient.  However, building codes often restrict the use of low efficacy lamps, such as halogen or incandescent, in bathrooms, even if they are controlled by dimmers.  So, employing motion or vacancy sensors instead of dimmers could free the designer from these limitations.

photo by Misha Burk

Ventilation
In recent years, ventilation has gotten much more sophisticated.  Better fans and combination fan/light units are whisper quiet.  And, the units can be purchased with humidity driven switching or motion detector actuated night lights.  To determine what size of fan your project requires, simply divide the cubic footage of the bathroom by 5.   In this case, bigger is not necessarily better, because an exhaust fan that is too powerful could pull more air out of the bathroom than can enter.  This could make the fan overheat, make it less efficient, or make it noisier.

Sinks and Faucets
Sinks and faucets are the "eye candy" of a bathroom.  Both are now available in a wide variety of specialty finishes.   Even though toilet flushing plungers are not yet available in some finishes, the handles could always be re-plated to match the finish of the faucets for an additional cost.

photo by Doug Salin 

Toilets
Comfort height toilets are increasingly popular, and are no longer only considered for ADA projects. And, the styling has vastly improved!   For example, the Kohler "Persuade" toilet not only has contemporary styling, but also is dual flush.  In-wall tank toilets, which make marvelous use of small spaces, are another option to consider. 

Bathtubs
It is generally accepted that home buyers like a house to have at least one bathtub.  So, this should be a consideration when planning a bathroom remodeling project.  Now, hydrotherapy whirlpool tubs are gaining popularity over traditional water jet tubs.  Hydrotherapy tubs give a more soothing, vibrating massage, while water jet tubs give a more vigorous, pulsating massage.  Hydrotherapy tubs are considered more sanitary than water jet tubs because the water does not remain standing in the internal pipes when the tub is not being used.  And, the new infinity edged tubs with overflow drain systems are amazing! 

Shower Heads
If you are installing multiple shower heads in your remodeled bathroom, such as a combination of rain showers, hand held showers, or body sprays, consider completing the installation by the end of 2010.  A new building code goes into effect on January 1, 2011 that requires using valves, which can only activate one water emitter at a time. 

Fireplaces
For a really luxurious and romantic element, consider adding a fireplace to the bathroom!   Today's direct vent gas fireplaces are economical and easy to install.  Since direct vent gas fireplaces do not require a chimney, they can be vented through a wall or through the roof. The direct vent operates not only by drawing combustion air, but also by venting to the outside atmosphere.  So, direct vent fireplaces don't consume warm air from inside the house, or compete with the furnace or other appliances for combustion air.  Plus, direct venting eliminates the heat loss and the drafts associated with other types of fireplaces.  How better to make your bathroom toasty?

What makes your bathroom a showplace?

Not the old Murphy Beds of Yesteryear!

by Shannon Kirby

I recently had clients ask for a wall bed system for their home gym slash guest room. Most of the ones I have seen were just too traditional for this client.  After searching on the internet I found a company in New York that has the most amazing systems like nothing I had ever seen. Resource Furniture has a very knowledgeable staff and really stands behind their products.  I am thrilled, too, that Mscape in San Francisco is representing this wonderful manufacturer from Italy.  Now take a look at these and try and figure out how the beds open when there is a bookcase or desk.

photos by www.resourcefurniture.com

To see the demonstrations on how they unfold into very comfortable beds, go to www.mscapesf.com or www.resourcefurniture.com.  Very ingenious wouldn't you say?

A Glossary of Decorative Window Treatments

by Jan Gunn Interior Architecture and Design

There are many types of treatments that can decorate the top of a window.

Swags and Jabots
The most formal, traditional, and elegant windows are often draped with swags and jabots at the top of the window.  A single swag might be draped across the top of a shorter window, or multiple swags might be draped across the top of a longer window or a group of windows.  The soft, gathered swoops of the swag might be accentuated with passementerie (gimp, cord, beads, fringe or braid), or crowned at each point along the top with fabric rosettes or another detail.  The jabots, which are the tails that cascade down on each side, frame the window with S-shaped or zigzag folds.  Often, the jabots are lined with contrasting fabric, or are edged with passementerie for greater emphasis.

Valences
Valences are the soft fabric treatments at the top of a window.  Valances serve the practical purpose of concealing the mechanical hardware on the window treatments.  Valances can extend the height of a window, filling the awkward space below the ceiling and above the window.  The height of the valances should be in proportion with the window height and the ceiling height.  A good guideline is to start with a standard valance height of 14 inches, and to adjust the proportions from there.  If the window is wide, making the valences larger will make the ceiling look lower.   If the room is long and narrow, making the valences wider than the windows, so that the curtains pull all the way back to the window jambs, will make the room look wider.

Cornices
Like valances, cornices conceal the drapery hardware, and provide a decorative element at the top of windows that gives them a more finished appearance.  While valances are soft, essentially a short curtain, cornices are hard.  Cornices are usually made from wood that is painted or covered with fabric, or from fabric that is stiffened with buckram.  Buckram is a coarse cotton that has been stiffened with glue or sizing.  Cornices are usually rectangular, although they might also have a shaped edge, which adds a more architectural element.

Lambrequins
Like cornices, lambrequins are often made from a firm board covered with fabric.  In addition to a shaped edge, lambrequins have "tails" that extend partway down the sides of the window.

Pleats
There are many types of pleats, so depending on the style, the effect can be either formal or casual. Essentially, the pleats add fullness to the drapery panels.  A good guideline is for the total width of the fabric to be 2 1/2 to 3 times greater than the width of the area to be covered.

photographs and drawings courtesy of Southern Accents Magazine

A Drapery Treatise

by Jan Gunn Interior Architecture and Design

Fabric
Fabric is the single most important element in a drapery's overall appearance, construction and style.  It is essential to choose a fabric that will drape well, that will hold its shape, and is the right weight for the desired style.  In a period or traditional room, it is often nice to also use an under drapery, which adds another layer of pattern or texture.  Or, you could use a faux under drapery, attached to each side panel.

Linings

Although sunlight filtering through unlined curtains can be pretty, most draperies, with the exception of sheers, should be lined to protect the fabric, to block light when desired, to help retain the shape, and to extend the life.  Use a lightweight lining for draperies that puddle at the bottom.  For a billowy look, use a lightweight lining and only attach it at the sides, and not at the bottom, so it will fill with air and move. Specialty linings, such as blackout lining, provide complete darkness when desired.

Sheers without lining

Silk draperies with cotton lining

Interlinings
It is important that the weight of the interlining be suitable for the weight of the face fabric and the style of the drapery.  Designers of thick, luxurious draperies often use bump, which is a heavier, blanket-like cotton or flannel interlining that also provides insulation.  An interior designer can advise you regarding the fabric, lining, and interlining that is best suited to your style of draperies.

White linen draperies with heavier cotton interlining

Tiebacks
When should you use tiebacks or holdbacks, and when should drapery panels hang straight?  It depends on the overall look you're trying to achieve, how much of the window and the view you want to see, and the amount of space available on either side of the window for the drapery panels to stack when they are open. Tiebacks are often used in more formal or traditional settings, or conversely, for country-style draperies.  Straight panels look right in a cleaner, more modern setting.  Both new and old houses often have very pretty windows that homeowners don't want to obscure, so tiebacks can be used to reveal more of the glass.

Tiebacks in the same fabric as the draperies

A tassel tieback

A metal holdback

photographs and fabric chart courtesy of Window Fashions Magazine

A Kohler Retreat

by Jan Gunn Interior Architecture and Design

 

I've just returned from a three day adventure to the Village of Kohler, Wisconsin, the home of Kohler Plumbing.  
I was one of about 18 California designers treated to an informative tour of the Kohler facilities.

We visited the cast iron factory (that produces tubs, sinks and various commercial machinery parts) and the vitreous china factory (that produces toilets and sinks).  
I found both tours fascinating.

We even saw the casting process, in which molten iron is poured into various forms. 
That wasn't too surprising, but the real surprise is how the end items are colorized. 
The iron piece is heated to 2700 degrees, and then a coat of powder is applied with a device that looks like a flour strainer. 
The powder that falls on the iron piece doesn't have any color initially, but as the piece cools, the color comes up!

Casting itself is also interesting to observe, apart from the powder coating aspect. 
As you might imagine, it takes a negative form to manufacture the vitreous china end product, and to get it a positive "pattern" is pressed into loose sand, which then is the basis for the negative form.

Our group was also shown sneak previews of new products, but no photos were allowed!  

 

Kohler's three story design center was filled with vignettes of bathrooms and kitchens created by designers from all over the country.  
Kohler owns the upscale plumbing company Kallista, as well as the modestly priced Sterling line. 

Our Carriage House Hotel was beautiful and furnished in Baker and McGuire furniture, companies that are also part of the Kohler corporate family (along with Ann Sacks).  
We were offered a marvelous massage at Kohler's world class spa, which boasted every pampering amenity one could imagine.  
They treated us especially well when meal times arrived.  The beef Wellington hors d' oeuvres were unforgettable!

photos by Kohler

A Kohler Toilet Primer

by Jan Gunn Interior Architecture and Design

Kohler makes four types of toilets.

We are all familiar with the single flush gravity feed toilet.  In addition, Kohler now makes a dual flush gravity feed toilet that uses only 0.8 gallons of water for liquid waste and 1.6 gallons for solid waste.  Most residences would use one or the other of these toilets.  For a "never plug" toilet necessary in commercial applications they have two additional options.  The Pressure Lite toilet uses the street water pressure to activate a sealed canister which acts as a power booster to eliminate waste.  The Power Lite toilet has an even more aggressive system.  An electric motor pressurizes a canister to activate the flush.  This type of toilet has a very sleek, "tank-less" look as exemplified by the Hatbox toilet.

Portrait toilet, standard gravity feed  

Persuade toilet, dual flush gravity feed

Wellworth toilet, Pressure Lite flush system

Hatbox toilet, Power Lite flush system












photos by Kohler

Measuring Up to the Job

by Shannon Kirby

It seems in every one of our projects we are asked many questions about the "right" height or placement of lighting and art.  There really isn't one specific answer but I do follow guidelines so things are comfortable and pleasing to the eye.  Please use these as a starting point not just the hard and fast rules.

Chandeliers look best 33-36" above the table no matter the ceiling height.

The formula to begin to know what minimum size of fixture is best for your space is to take the width of the room in feet times 2 and convert this number to inches.


Wall sconces should be no less than 68" off the floor.  If they are in a hallway and have shades be sure they are high enough so the light doesn't shine directly in someones eyes.

Fireplace mantels vary widely as do the recommendations of where to add sconces.  The 68" above the floor is a good place to start.  If your fireplace is very wide they should be hung over both ends not in the wall spaces beyond the mantel.


Bedrooms pose their own set of issues.  The height of the swing arm light in the photograph is a good starting point.  The headboard height will really determine where it should be hung.  You will have to sit on the bed too to make sure it isn't shining in your eyes.


The base of the wall lamp should be a minimum of 8" from the headboard.

If you want to place fragile things above your bed be sure to use museum glue or even a glue gun so there is no  chance of something falling on your head.

If you hang art or a mirror above your bed be sure to use earthquake hangers which securely hold the wire through an "s" channel.

Hanging art is very personal and what is best to remember is the overall shape of a group of art.  In a living room if your sofa is low and long I would suggest you hang them low and in a row horizontally.  Hang 10" above a sofa so elbows and heads don't hit.  Sit in your room and look at the placement and height of the art- it should be easy to see without stretching your neck.  Hallways are where people walk so they should be at eye level but not hung by someone 6 ft 6 inches tall!

Mirrors above a fireplace are popular but can be tricky.  They should begin 8" above the mantel.  If you cannot see yourself in the mirror and only see the ceiling when standing in front of the fireplace I would suggest hanging something else.  If it looks too small over the fireplace it is!  Now it is possible to angle the mirror down into the room by increasing the length of the wire to the desired pitch but don't angle too much or you will see everyone's feet.

If you want to do a group it is best to lay it out on the floor first.  Once you have an arrangement you like you can use sheets of wrapping paper or other long paper on a roll to outline each piece and where to hanger should be.  Then just  tape the paper on the wall, hammer in the hangers where you marked, remove the paper and hang your art!



photos from House Beautiful 11/2001